Kensington Palace Exhibition Review

Most famous as the home of Diana, Princess of Wales, Kensington Palace is situated in one of the most picturesque areas of London. A short walk from Kensington High Street and located in Hyde Park, my first surprise discovery was just how old the Palace is. I honestly had no idea that Kensington Palace dates back to the 17th Century and was adapted for Royal use by Sir Christopher Wren.

The famously sombre Queen Victoria was born here and lived at the Palace until she succeeded the throne when she moved to Buckingham Palace. Other members of the Royal Family, too many to mention, have lived in separate apartments on and off for nearly four hundred years and continue to do so today. It was, perhaps, only on the death of Princess Diana that Kensington Palace really reached the public psyche. Today, it remains a place of homage and mourning for people from across the globe.

The current exhibition running until June next year is entitled “The Last Debutantes” and celebrates 50 years since the last debutantes were presented at court. Crusaders (with not a lot better to do!) have tried to recreate this tradition for the younger generations since 1958 but no young ladies have been presented to the Queen for the last 50 years.

The exhibition itself is fascinating; the number of genuine momentos from that last debutante season is incredible. Among the glamorous gowns, gloves and jewellery were accessories in amazing condition including handbags, shoes. The most surprising exhibits were corsets and suspender belts – it’s amazing what people keep as mementoes of their youth!

More obvious keepsakes such as invitations to season events including Garden Parties at Buckingham Palace were curiously exciting to see! I guess I was totally sucked in by the glamour of the 1950’s and, if I’m honest, wish that life were still like this! This was an era when “coming out” meant something totally different to today’s meaning!

Most people visit Kensington Palace for its association with Princess Diana. Two apartments were used by Diana and Charles after their marriage and Diana remained with her sons, Princes William and Harry, after their divorce until her death in 1997. I was not expecting to see Diana’s apartments but there were a few mumbles of disappointment from other visitors when they realised they would not be seeing precisely where she lived! However, there were several of her dresses on display and this, for me, was the highlight.

The temporary exhibition entitled “Diana, Fashion and Style” is on until the end of the year. Of the 12 Diana dresses exhibited, probably the most famous was the dark blue dress she wore at the White House in 1985 when she was unforgettably spun around the dance floor by John Travolta! This same dress was sold at the auction of Diana’s dresses at Christie’s in New York in 1997 (before her death) and fetched a record breaking US$225,000! I’m not sure what happened to the rest of Diana’s clothes after her death but these 12 gowns are on loan to Kensington Palace which seems kind of weird!

I thoroughly enjoyed visiting Kensington Palace and the two temporary exhibitions were particularly good. I admit that, once again, I was drawn towards temptation after the tour and made my way to the Orangery. The Orangery restaurant is, quite simply, the epitome of British style and luxury! It was the perfect place to take English afternoon tea and the perfect end to a Royal visit!

Kensington Palace tour and the temporary exhibitions are open 10am-6pm until the end of October. From November the Palace closes at 5pm.
Adult Entry: £12.30

London Pass holders can visit Kensington Palace and the temporary exhibitions free of charge and receive a 20% discount at the Orangery Restaurant.

Chelsea Football Tour Part 2

So there we were, a 12 year old Spurs fan posing as a Chelsea fan complete with team shirt and a thirty-something West Ham fan boldly admitting her allegiance to a rival team. Stamford Bridge, home of Chelsea FC - one of the richest football clubs in the world – genuinely welcomes football fans of all persuasions. Our guide even went as far as thanking me (an unofficial West Ham rep for the day!!) for providing Chelsea with so many good players over the years… Joe Cole and Frank Lampard are just two of the current Chelsea squad who came from West Ham.

Elvis, our guide, made a point of finding out where everyone was from in the world and who we all supported. His football knowledge extended way beyond the realms of Chelsea FC though his passion for the club was unmistakeable. Having had the introductory tours from the stands where we could admire the grandeur of the stadium, we moved onto the press room (pictured above right with Elvis at the desk). Elvis kept the jokes running whilst continuing to give us stories and snippets of information about the club and the various areas we visited.

One thing that really impressed me was the number of photo opportunities given to visitors. In fact, there were no photo restrictions at all which was brilliant. Consequently, I do have photos of every conceivable view in the stadium which was maybe a little extreme! The visitor changing room (above left) was basic to say the least and reminiscent of a school changing room. Apparently it used to be much smaller and they purposely only provided 10 pegs and lockers for an 11-man team! There are just two treatment tables compared to 5 in the home changing room and the white board (used for pre and mid-match team talks) is stuck in the corner behind the door! Not surprisingly, Chelsea does nothing to assist their rivals with the exception of Molton Brown products in the showers so that their opponents smell nice!

We were in for a real treat when we arrived at the home changing room as the genuine kit had been laid out in preparation for the public training spectacle the following day. Usually, visitors will see player’s shirts in the dressing room and be able to have their photo taken next to it but, whilst we couldn’t stand right next to the kit for security reasons, we could see their shirts, shorts, tracksuits, boots, trainers and shin guards- everything they would need for a training session or game. My nephew and I were so excited by this that we took photos of every single player’s kit! We were amused to see that most of the players don't bother to undo the shoe laces of their trainers before taking them off! The facilities for the home players were much more luxurious with spacious showers, ice baths, drink machines and a physio area.

Elvis had chosen a home and visitor captain to lead us through the famous tunnel (left) to the ground and my nephew continued his web of deceit by leading the Chelsea “team” onto the pitch! By this stage he wasn’t even embarrassed by his deception and I wondered if he was about to swear his allegiance to Chelsea! To be honest, the tour does have this kind of effect on people and I wouldn’t have been entirely surprised if Spurs had been forgotten!

We had heard a rumour that Jose Mourinho (ex-Chelsea manager) had had a heated seat installed for himself at Stamford Bridge but could not see any sign of a special chair in the manager and players area. When I asked, we were told that it was Chelsea’s owner, Roman Abramovich, who had had some extras installed in his personal box on the opposite side of the pitch, including heated seats and even carpeted stairs! We were also told though that “Mr” Abramovich is an incredibly generous man and paid for all of his staff (including the tour guides) to travel to Russia last season for the Champions League final. Very generous indeed!

The attention to detail at Chelsea is quite unexpected. Around and behind the manager and players seats are the “family seats” intended for younger fans (pictured right, my nephew sitting in the manager's unheated seat). At a cost of only £15 per seat compared to the average £50 seats, there is the added advantage for kids to get close to players in the squad who may be out injured or suspended and seeing the team arrive and leave through the tunnel. If the kids get bored during half-time then there are a number of X-Boxes provided at the back for further entertainment! They think of everything!

All in all, the Chelsea FC Stadium Tour is a wonderful experience. Regardless of who you support or even if you don’t follow football, it is a real eye-opener to visit such a high profile premiership football stadium and find out what goes on behind the scenes as well as on the pitch. I would thoroughly recommend this tour for families, sport-lovers and anyone who fancies doing something a little bit different in London. The London Pass includes this tour in its attraction list and, as well as free entry, you also receive 10% discount on merchandise in the megastore.

The Chelsea FC Stadium Tour is a well-deserved recipient of a Ding Dong Award for the excellent tour guides, access to most areas, numerous photo opportunities and general entertainment value!


Chelsea FC Stadium Tour is available every day except match days on the hour from 11am to 3pm.
Tip: Phone beforehand to check availability
Adult Entry: £15
Child Entry: £9

London Pass holders are offered free entry to the tour and museum and 10% discount on merchandise at the onsite megastore.

Chelsea FC Stadium Tour

It has been a while since I awarded a Ding Dong for something or somewhere in London, but the second that I glimpsed the impressive Chelsea Football Club stadium, I had a feeling that this would be one of my London top tips.

Stamford Bridge is surprisingly easy to reach- taking only about 20 minutes from Oxford Street and then a 2 minute walk from Fulham Broadway tube station. We arrived about half an hour before the tour began to ensure our place and were directed along to the museum to await our tour guide and get our first view of the stadium in all its glory.

Tours take place every day (except home match days) on the hour from 11am to 3pm and you can book in advance on the Chelsea website or take your chance and turn up around half an hour before the tour starts. It’s probably a good idea to check availability beforehand in case there is a last minute tour cancellation.

While waiting to be called by our tour guide, my nephew and I made ourselves comfortable in what was once known as the family box but is now referred to as the WAGs box (Wives and Girlfriends). It is not particularly luxurious but it does afford a fabulous view of the ground (right). It is many many years since I visited a football stadium and I was astounded at the size of the pitch. My nephew reliably informed me that football pitches vary in size so it’s possible I hadn’t seen one as big as this before.

As our group were gathered together our guide, Elvis, introduced himself and led us out to the stands. I should point out that I am a West Ham supporter and my nephew is a Tottenham Hotspur supporter. However, whereas I was happy to hold my head up high and admit to being a Hammers fan, my self-conscious nephew actually borrowed a Chelsea shirt for the day for fear of standing out in the crowd! When Elvis asked if there were any other premiership team fans in the group, my nephew was horrified when I waved my hand thinking I might give away his secret – I was oblivious to his fear while enjoying a little friendly banter with Elvis!

We had chosen a fantastic day for the tour. With under a week to go before the start of the new season and just 24 hours before the clubs big fan and press day, it was all hands on deck in preparation. The grounds men were painting fresh lines on the pitch, other staff were cleaning and polishing each individual seat in the stadium (above right) and, most importantly, the kit man had been getting things ready in the changing rooms. The tour included all areas of the stadium and, as this is receiving a Sparkly Songbird Ding Dong, I shall save the details for next time!

The Royal Mews, London

There is nothing like living history to catch my attention and the Royal Mews at the back of Buckingham Palace is a wonderful example. Home to Royal transport including horses, carriages and cars and also the people who love and care for them, the Royal Mews is very much a working stables.

The guides at the Royal Mews are, without doubt, the smartest in London. Their black and red uniforms are perfectly tailored and pressed and there is no question that they are a cut above the regular guides found in other London tourist attractions. They are also unbelievably helpful: after having my bag scanned a lá airport security, I was offered an audio guide which was actually placed over my head for me!!! That’s what I call customer service!

The horses housed in the stables are so beautifully groomed that, at first, I didn’t realise that they were real as they stood almost motionless, ignoring the visitors! I’m not a particularly horsey person but these Royal mounts are pretty special – imagine the things that they have seen! The groomsmen and other staff responsible for all Royal road travel live at the Mews in apartments above the stables. It is not unusual for several generations of one family to live and work here.

The Royal Carriages are what most people want to see when they visit the Royal Mews and these are housed around the main courtyard. The first thing I noticed was just how tiny the carriages are – particularly the 19th Century Glass Coach (above left) which was used by both the Queen and Princess Diana on their wedding days. It is little wonder that Diana’s huge wedding dress was so screwed up when she arrived at St Paul’s Cathedral.

As if proof were needed that this is a working stable, in the harness room where the leather pieces are made and repaired, a man was working. I stood and watched this skilled craftsman at work and then wondered if he felt like an exhibit in a zoo! If he did, he didn’t show it and studiously continued with his work.

The climax of the Royal Mews is definitely the Gold State Coach (right) which caused those around me to gasp at first sight! If it weren’t so magnificent it would be vulgar! Built in the 18th Century for a whopping £7000, it has been used at every Royal Coronation since then. The carriage itself is massive, ornate and so gold that it doesn’t look real! It is hard to believe that something so genuinely grand exists even when you are stood in front of it! It would take 3 whole days to get the Gold State Coach out of its garage. The process would require opening the secret doors, disconnecting the central heating, removing pictures and slowly turning the coach until it could be moved out.

The Royal Mews is a fascinating place to visit. Knowing that the horses, carriages, cars and coaches are still used and that the Mews is the hub of Royal road travel makes it all the more special.



The Royal Mews is open 7 days a week until October 11am – 4pm.
Adult Entry = £7.50

London Pass holders receive free entry to the Royal Mews and also the Queen’s Gallery next door.

Apsley House

Home to the first Duke of Wellington, Apsley House was popularly known as “Number One, London” as it was the first house passed in London after the Knightsbridge toll gates.

Today, it overlooks the very busy Hyde Park Corner and remains the London Residence of the Duke of Wellingtons direct descendants. However, they now share this magnificent town house with English Heritage who run the museum.

Having beaten Napoleon at Waterloo, the Duke of Wellington was responsible for preserving English as our national language! He bought Apsley House in 1817 from his brother who was suffering financial difficulties. He immediately set about extending, re-facing and renovating the property until, 50 years after it was built, it became more or less unrecognisable from the original.

It now houses the first Duke’s outstanding collection of paintings as well as porcelain, sculptures, medals, silver and general memorabilia. In the 1990’s the house was restored to its early 19th Century appearance and it is a credit to English Heritage that it feels not restored but untouched.

As a nod to his former enemy, there is an 11 foot marble statue of Napoleon whose modesty is only covered by a fig leaf (!) dominating the central stairwell. There is also a small gallery of Wellington memorabilia and pictures charting the history of the house from the first Duke to current members of the family and the house itself.

It was the seventh Duke of Wellington who gave the house to the nation in 1947 but ensured the family would retain the use of half of the house “so long as there is a Duke of Wellington”. Apsley House therefore has the feel of a family home and not just a well preserved historic property. The private quarters are, of course, not open to the public.

The highlight in this incredible collection is the elaborate Sevres Egyptian dinner service which Napoleon had made as a divorce present for Josephine (which she declined) and was later presented to Wellington by Louis XVIII. It was not unusual for Wellington to receive presents from Europeans monarchs who were all grateful to him for saving their kingdoms.

Apsley House is well worth a visit for a touch of 19th Century London and to discover the life of one of Britain’s great heroes. The house may be decorative and ornate but the first Duke of Wellington was famously down to earth and reserved these extravagancies for his public persona; he actually lived in a very modest apartment at the top of the house.

Apsley House is open Weds-Sunday and bank holidays 11am-5pm
Adult Entry: £5.50


London Pass holders can visit Apsley House free of charge

The Guards Museum, London

I suppose it was only a question of time before I visited somewhere that I really didn’t enjoy at all. There have been places that weren’t entirely my cup of tea but I’ve still garnered something from the experience. Unfortunately, the Guards Museum did not fall into this category. I admit that I have no special interest in military history but I don’t believe that special interest should be a prerequisite for visiting museums. As usual, I entered this attraction with an open mind and some hope that I would learn something new or see something unusual.

The staff were friendly and welcoming on arrival and accepted my London Pass with a smile and said if I had any questions I could ask them. Within a few minutes I probably should have requested a guided tour of the museum as, without audio or written guides and a distinct lack of information on display, the exhibitions were pretty meaningless.

There is so much on display at the Guards Museum that I am sure any military enthusiast would be in his/her element here. Unfortunately for me, there appeared to be a distinct lack of order in the displays and too many artefacts in each cabinet. Consequently, I could not even enjoy the musical instrument section which might just have won me around!

Having said all this I do think that kids (particularly boys) would enjoy all the military paraphernalia and anyone with a family history in Her Majesty’s Foot Guards. Regrettably there was nothing here to tickle my fancy and I think this was largely due to the shortage of information and the overstuffed display cabinets! It may, of course, just be me that feels this way. With free entry for children and just £3 for adults, it is not the end of the world if you agree with me so don’t be put off by my negative review. If you are visiting Buckingham Palace, the Royal Mews or the Queen’s Gallery it is probably worth popping in while you are in the area.


The Guards Museum is open 7 days a week 10am – 4pm.
Adult Entry: £3
Children 16 and under: Free

London Pass holders can visit the Guards Museum free of charge.

Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms, London

A short walk away from the Houses of Parliament on the edge of St James’s Park, the Churchill Museum and Cabinet War rooms are hidden beneath Clive Steps. These underground rooms were the epicentre for the British war effort between 1939 and 1945. The War Cabinet, Winston Churchill (the British Prime Minister), and his most senior advisors plotted the war here and were protected from German bomb attacks on London throughout the Second World War.

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect from the Cabinet War Rooms but assumed it would amount to little more than a few reconstructed offices decked out with wartime furnishings! How wrong I was! The bunker style entrance immediately provokes the notion that this is not just a homage to Churchill – it is the genuine and faithfully preserved British control centre of the Second World War.

Opened to the public in 1984 with additional rooms opened in 2003, the Cabinet War Rooms are run by the Imperial War Museum and the Churchill Museum followed in 2005. There is so much I could write about this underground complex as it is a fascinating labyrinth of offices, bedrooms, dining and conference rooms. The fact that the whole place was kept secret from the nation and, most importantly, Hitler, makes it all the more amazing.

The War Cabinet Room itself is exactly as it would have been during the war. (Unfortunately my photos are not great as the room is protected by a glass front but they can all be seen on my flickr page). Even further below ground in the sub-basement is the “dock” which can’t be accessed by the public but contained the sleeping quarters for junior staff. Cramped conditions, low ceilings, vermin, insects, noise and bright lighting hardly encouraged people to take advantage of the facilities. Many staff decided the blitz was worth the risk rather than staying in accommodation that did not even boast a flushing toilet!

All the doors in the network of rooms are numbered and it is room 63 which contained the biggest secret of all. From the outside, it appears to be a toilet and most staff believed it was the only flushing toilet in the basement and not available for their use. But Room 63 was, in fact, the transatlantic telephone “hot-line” room where Churchill was able to speak to the US President without fear of phone tapping from the enemy.

Although there is little evidence of luxury, the sleeping facilities for senior staff were surprisingly homely. Mrs Churchill had her own bedroom (right) close to the Prime Minister’s detectives and military advisor. The Prime Minister’s bedroom-cum-office (below right) contained a large desk, a single bed and a supply of his trademark cigars (how did he get these during the war?). There was also a private dining room (left) which was serviced by a specially installed kitchen. Despite all these living facilities, it is believed that Churchill only spent 3 nights sleeping here and preferred to sleep in his Downing Street quarters or watch the bombings from the roof of the building (nobody could accuse that man of cowardice!).

Among the offices, typing pools and map rooms is the BBC radio broadcasting room from where Churchill addressed the nation periodically. A network of colour coded telephones can be seen in all the offices and original maps plotting the war effort are on practically every wall. The main map room (among others) became defunct when war ended in 1945 and was not touched or seen again until the 1970s. Everything is now exactly as it was left more than sixty years ago down to the very last drawing pin! When the map room was uncovered, an envelope was found hidden in a desk drawer with a name on the front and some sugar lumps inside - with rationing in place, this was clearly one item that was particularly precious to its owner!

To walk around the Cabinet War Rooms, knowing that one of the greatest Britons of the 20th Century had walked along those same corridors is surprisingly emotive. Knowing that the majority of what you see is original and has remained in situ, untouched, for all these years makes the experience an even better one. Whatever your nationality, age or sex this is one London landmark that should be seen and appreciated by every visitor to London. Sir Winston Churchill once said “Broadly speaking, the short words are the best”; so GO SEE IT!

The Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms are open daily from 9.30am-6pm
Adult entry fee: £12
Senior Citizens/Students: £9.50
London Pass holders can enter without further payment and receive a free audio guide.
Sound guides are available in eight languages.

Southwark Cathedral

Unlike its more famous counterpart (St.Paul’s) across the river, Southwark Cathedral has often been overlooked by visitors to London. However, with the recent regeneration of the Southbank and the Cathedral’s cleaning and renovation in 2000 it has, quite rightly, become a significant religious landmark as well as a popular tourist destination.

Southwark Cathedral is London’s oldest Gothic building, dating from 1220-1420. However, religious buildings have stood on the same site possibly since the 7th century. In an archaeological dig in 1999, Saxon foundations were found so this is, without doubt, an ancient religious site of great importance. Southwark was awarded Cathedral status in 1905.

The building itself is a positive mish-mash of styles and materials. I don’t know a lot about architecture but somehow this fusion adds to the splendour and it is an incredibly attractive Cathedral. It is worth walking the full perimeter of the Cathedral and admiring its turrets, towers, spires and steeples.

There are several entrances to Southwark Cathedral but, whichever door you use, volunteers are on hand to answer questions and lead you in the right direction. There are also helpful signposts throughout the Cathedral which is a little strange but necessary in such a sprawling building.

I admit that my first reaction on entering the Cathedral was one of disappointment. It is such a shame that in a beautiful building with stunning stained glass windows and striking stone work, ones eyes are first drawn to the ugly, incongruous chairs where, I assume, wooden pews once stood. I know modern seating is quite normal in many churches and cathedrals across the country and appreciate that the ancient pews cannot last forever, but surely more fitting chairs could be found?

I went straight to the Cathedral Shop to claim my free souvenir guidebook and audio guide. Unfortunately they had run out of audio guides but, rather than wait for one to be returned, I was happy to find my own way round and use the guidebook for information.

Southwark Cathedral has so many interesting links to famous people through the ages and memorials, plaques, windows and even chapels are dedicated to a wide range of luminaries. The Harvard Chapel is named after the university benefactor, John Harvard, who was born in Southwark, baptized in the church in 1607 and educated at Emmanuel College, Cambridge before setting off for a new but short life in America. He died prematurely in 1638 leaving part of his fortune to a college for the “education of English and Indian youth in knowledge and godliness”. That college eventually became known as Harvard University.

Other highlights of Southwark Cathedral are the 20th Century Shakespeare Memorial in the east end of the south aisle, depicting the playwright in a relaxed pose in front of the Globe and Rose Theatres. Next to this is a memorial tablet to American actor/director Sam Wanamaker who was responsible for the recreated Globe Theatre that I visited recently. Shakespeare’s actor brother, Edmond, is also commemorated in a floor tablet near the Great Screen of the Chancel along with two dramatists of the same era.

Among the many memorials is a tablet shaped like a ship’s wheel, dedicated to the victims of the Marchioness disaster on the River Thames in 1989. Geoffrey Chaucer is also remembered in a stained glass window depicting his Canterbury pilgrims leaving Southwark.

In 2001, Nelson Mandela officially opened the newest part of the Cathedral which houses the Refectory Restaurant, a shop, library, conference facilities and also a museum. It is also where you can find the toilet facilities, below the Refectory, which I awarded 7/10 in my London Ding Dong’s Loo of 2008 contest!

Southwark Cathedral is a beautiful place to visit. Despite its Cathedral status and size it still feels very much like a community church and I would imagine the worshippers of Southwark feel very fortunate to have this incredible Cathedral as their local place of worship.

Admission to Southwark Cathedral is free but a minimum donation of £4.00 is requested. Photographs may only be taken inside the Cathedral with permission and a £2 fee must be paid (£5 for video cameras).

£2.50 is charged for an audio tour wand and the authorised guide book is also £2.50.

London Pass holders receive a free audio guide and glossy souvenir guide book and are offered 10% discount at the Refectory restaurant.

Britain At War

Of all the attractions and sights I’ve visited so far on my London Ding Dong rediscovery project, Winston Churchill’s Britain At War Experience is by far my favourite. This enchanting museum is a living, breathing testament to World War Two and really gives you a sense of what life was like for Londoners during the war.

From the moment you step through the door in Tooley Street, you are transported to wartime London with the sounds of popular songs of the era. My London Pass was accepted with a smile and I was handed a ticket. I then exchanged the ticket to take the lift to the underground air raid shelter. This was a recreation of a London Underground station platform where, during the war, literally thousands of Londoners took shelter from the bombings. This fact was nothing new but the way it was presented was so realistic, to the point of being upsetting. Tiny bunk beds with grubby pillows and blankets, a WVS lending library, a very basic canteen and first aid facilities – all set up to keep people safe and as comfortable as possible in these horrendous times.

Sitting in the darkened Underground platform, watching news reels from the period (updated in colour), I was quite overwhelmed by the hardship people suffered and what they endured in order to simply survive. About 25 people sat with me in quiet reflection including several children who appeared quite pensive. This first part of Britain At War is not depressing or overly solemn but the significant disparity between London above ground in 2008 and London under ground in the 1940s is a huge shock. To see how people coped with adversity during the war makes some of the following, more positive, representations all the more incredible.

Moving out of the underground shelter, more displays showed every side of war torn London: the BBC radio studio where war news was streamed across the world; a pub with watered down beer; the dressing room of the Drury Lane theatre; an American GIs club; children being evacuated; women at work in traditionally men-only jobs; clothes and fashion; food rationing… every aspect of life in WW2 is here, presented in an educational yet exciting way. Unfortunately the most effective displays could not be captured by my inferior camera due to the darkness.

A standard survival structure during the war was the Anderson Shelter - constructed in most gardens as a safe haven during air raids. The Britain At War reconstruction is pitch black, accompanied by sound effects so loud and realistic that you can’t help but appreciate how terrified those families huddled in an Anderson Shelter for protection must have felt.

The climax of Britain At War is a recreation of the Blitz in full flow. I admit to feeling fairly panicky as I felt my way through the darkness, taking one careful step after another. The sound, smoke and light effects make this a frighteningly realistic experience and I left, through the gift shop, with a considerably more sympathetic understanding of life during WW2.

The Britain At War Experience is not just a museum. It really does portray the lives of Britons during the most testing of times. Most of us learnt the facts of WW2 at school but now I have a much greater sense of how it affected ordinary people. I wonder, if (heaven forbid) we found ourselves in a similar situation today, whether we would have the same endurance and mettle. I doubt it somehow.


Winston Churchill’s Britain At War Experience is open 7 days a week from 10am to 4.30pm. Adult entry is £10.45 although free entry is included if you are using the London Pass. The entrance is in Tooley Street SE1, located behind the Hays Galleria shopping centre.

Tower Bridge Exhibition

Along with Big Ben, Tower Bridge is probably one of the most iconic images of London. People across the world recognise images of this famous bridge (although many mistakenly think this is London Bridge) and flock to see it on arrival in London. It is, indeed, a magnificent structure.

I approached the bridge from Tower Hill tube station, walking by the Tower of London and attempted to take some arty photographs which, as you can see, really don’t look arty at all! At the ticket office my London Pass was swiped, my bags had to go through an x-ray machine and I was half heatedly frisked by a security guy (what exactly do those hand-held metal detectors detect? I didn’t buzz despite wearing a belt and having a metal clip in my hair!). I never resent these security measures if it helps prevent the risk of terrorism but I did hear a few mutters of dissent from the group behind me.

I was then stopped by a guy with a camera and asked to stand against the wall while he took my picture. At this point I began to wonder if security at Tower Bridge was, in fact, way over the top! It turns out it was actually for one of those theme-park style photo mementos which superimposes you onto an image of Tower Bridge. A great souvenir for a family but I didn’t bother to stop and look at my pic. Up we went in the lift while the operator informed us about what we would see when we reached the top. While he recited his script, he didn’t open his eyes once which was very disconcerting; either he was desperately trying to remember his words or he was scared of the lift!

The Victorian Gothic design of Tower Bridge not only looks stunning but is also an engineering marvel. The stone and metalwork detail is surprisingly beautiful up close and, when you discover how the bridge was constructed before the days of health and safety, you cannot help but be impressed!

Unfortunately on the day I visited, the bridge was not due to lift but I imagine it’s an incredible sight when a ship passes through. The bridge is raised about 1000 times a year so it’s worth phoning to check the schedule on 02079403984 to see what the Victorians described as the “Wonder Bridge” in action!

Tower Bridge has two high-rise walkways, 42 metres above river level, providing views up and down the River Thames. I arrived late morning and it was a typically grey London day so my pictures are perhaps not as impressive as they could be. By the time I had made my way around the engine rooms, the London sky had turned blue but too late for my supposedly panoramic pictures! Although I haven’t got a great head for heights, I enjoyed the views and seeing just how architecturally diverse the London skyline is. I was quite surprised at the number of cranes I could see which I guess means London is going to cram a few more buildings in to that skyline!

The engine rooms with their Victorian steam engines were not of great interest to me though you can’t help but be impressed by the pure scale of the operation involved. Like HMS Belfast that I visited afterwards, I guess the steam engines would have more impact on boys who are interested in machinery and suchlike.

Adult entry to the Tower Bridge Exhibition is £6.00 and it takes about an hour to look around depending on how long you spend taking pictures. I had free entry with my London Pass and, with so many of their other inclusive attractions in the area, it is undoubtedly a place worth visiting. I probably spent about another half hour taking photos of the bridge itself, which can all be seen on flickr.

HMS Belfast

This historic floating museum was my “something blue” (which is actually grey camouflage) on my most recent sightseeing day in London. I admit that warships would not normally be my first port of call (excuse the pun!) on a tourist trail but HMS Belfast is a significant part of British naval history and an unavoidable sight along the River Thames. I knew I musn’t ignore this popular visitor attraction which is undoubtedly an integral part of the London experience.

You cannot miss HMS Belfast if you are anywhere near the Tower of London, Tower Bridge or City Hall- it is the big grey ship moored in the river! It was brought here in 1971 after a campaign to save her for the nation. She was launched on St Patricks Day in 1938, served throughout the Second World War and the Korean War before being retired from the Royal Navy in 1965.

The ship is an imposing metallic beast, built to withstand attack as well as carry out assaults against enemy forces. Almost all of this vast vessel is available to be explored by visitors and it is suggested that a full tour of the nine decks will take about 2 hours. Personally, I think it would take a little longer to see everything on show but if, like me, you are selective then 1.5 hours is ample time.

The purpose of HMS Belfast as a museum is to give visitors a taste of life onboard through the decades of its working life. They have worked hard to provide a sense of reality with dummies (i.e., mannequins!) in appropriate poses, sound effects and even smell effects! At first I found the life-like dummies a little creepy but they definitely bring the ship to life and help demonstrate the environment those sailors lived in. I have a feeling that some (not all) may be Madame Tussaud’s rejects as, on close inspection, I’m sure I saw Prince Philip, Lawrence Olivier and even a young Robbie Williams!

HMS Belfast is not an ideal place to visit if you have mobility problems and is also not particularly size-friendly (by that, I mean if you are tall or wide you may have difficulty getting around). The steps are steep and I, for one, was thankful that the ship was not moving in rough waters and that I had remembered to wear non-slip trainers! Rather than struggle, I decided I would miss out the engine rooms on the lower deck and concentrate on the crew quarters and living facilities. I don’t have any great interest in naval history, ammunitions or the workings of a warship but the human aspect really caught my attention.

The low-slung hammocks slept in by Ratings were quite an eye-opener. How they ever got any rest in those cramped conditions, I don’t know! I’m not sure if it was for real, but there was even a miniature hammock containing the ships cat! The Officers’ quarters were considerably more luxurious but hardly reached modern cruise ship standards! It was amazing to see the facilities onboard for nearly 1000 crew members including a shop, bakery, dental surgery, operating theatre, sick bay (I’m not sure how the ill and infirm made it onto the top bunk!) laundry and chapel.

For the naval and military-minded among you, there is an abundance of information on ammunitions, weights and measurements. You will also find specialist equipment to marvel at, maps and charts to ponder and lots of big guns to admire!

Regardless of how deep your interest is, HMS Belfast is an incredible museum reflecting how those brave men lived, worked and fought during the 20^th Century. The free colour coded map enables you to find your own way around the ship but if you plan to see everything from the top of the Bridge to the boiler and engine rooms below water level then use the audio guide to help you. Don’t forget to wear sturdy, comfortable shoes- even in summer, this is no place for sandals or high heels!

At a cost of £1000 per day to maintain, HMS Belfast is well preserved and the adult entry fee of £10.30 is well worth it (although I had free entry with the London Pass). For an extra special event, kids can take part in the “Kip In A Ship” experience, living the life of a sailor for a day and a night! For real naval enthusiasts, HMS Belfast can be hired for parties and can even be used as a wedding venue! I’m not sure it would be my choice for that special day but I’m glad I visited Britain’s largest surviving 20^th Century warship.

St Paul's Cathedral With The London Pass

I have trouble getting up in the mornings. This is probably because I have a trouble going to bed at night! Ordinarily, this doesn’t cause any problems but when you have a day of sightseeing planned and you can’t wake up at a decent hour one has to pay the price! Consequently I rarely get to see as much as I’d like to when I go to London and would advise anyone more sensible than me to go to bed at a “normal” time and get up early to make the most of your London experience. Also check the opening hours of each attraction so that you don’t miss out. The London Pass site and guidebook provide all the details you need so spend a few minutes planning your itinerary carefully, especially if your time in London is limited. Thankfully for me, I’m not restricted by time so I probably won’t be changing my sleeping patterns just yet!

It was getting a little late in the afternoon when I headed towards St Paul’s Cathedral but was still well within “opening hours”. I took the advice given in the London Pass guidebook and avoided potential queues by entering via the Crypt. Having walked from the Globe Theatre across the Millennium Bridge and around the Cathedral to the downstairs entrance (stopping to take some pics of that little squirrel you've already seen!), I was pleased to find the Refectory Restaurant was open and offered 20% discount to London Pass holders. Half an hour, one cup of tea and a chocolate brownie later (oh when will I ever resist temptation?!), I made my way to the Crypt which contains a Who’s Who of famous historical figures – or rather their graves and monuments! Christopher Wren, architect of this magnificent building is buried here along with renowned musicians, writers, artists, scientists and soldiers.

It seems wrong to walk across grave stones but in St Paul’s Crypt it is virtually impossible not to as they are packed into every available space! Some of the engravings are hard to decipher and, in some cases, so worn by age and footsteps that they have disappeared completely. I guess that every visitor has their “favourites” (is it wrong to have a favourite grave?!) but I veered to the tombs and memorials representing the Arts rather than the multitude of military figures.

One of the most touching memorials I discovered was a small plaque dedicated to Robert Eaton who was once a St Paul’s chorister and died in the 9/11 attacks on the World Trader Centre.

I should explain that you are not allowed to take photographs inside but if you make it to the top of the building you can take pictures of the views across London. I had forgotten to purchase my discounted audio guide before entering the Crypt and probably spent too long wandering around aimlessly reading inscriptions. I was also waylaid by an excellent exhibition charting the relationship of the Royal Family with St Paul’s. By the time I went to get an audio guide I was kindly warned that I’d almost certainly run out of time to make it up the 530 steps to the Golden Gallery (even though I was planning to run up them – ha ha!) and may not even reach the Whispering Gallery. The Whispering Gallery should really be done in pairs anyway to make the most of its clever acoustics (the prospect of being on opposite sides of the 30 metre high gallery and whispering to each other blows my mind!). The lovely man apologised (as though it was his fault that I hadn’t woken early enough!) and said that he could stamp my ticket to enable re-entry on another occasion. How kind is that? I still would’ve returned at some point for the momentous climb but now I’ll keep that ticket safe and do the deed when I’m back in London.

Instead, I took the opportunity to look upwards from the Cathedral floor (beware: neck strain!) and appreciate the spectacular mosaics, carvings and art work. Although I had not been inside before, the £40million cleaning and repair programme - in preparation for the 300^th anniversary in 2010 - is definitely money well spent! The inside of St Paul’s is truly breathtaking and, despite so many visitors wandering around, provides a place for quiet contemplation in the middle of this bustling metropolis.

Shakespeare's Globe Theatre

So the “somewhere new that looks old” was the Globe Theatre on the south bank of the River Thames. This magnificent reproduction of the original 16^th Century theatre is an absolute joy to look at and even better when you get inside.

With the London Pass you get the opportunity to visit the theatre, see the world’s largest exhibition devoted to William Shakespeare and take a guided tour of the semi-open air theatre.

My guide-storyteller, Emmiline, did a fantastic job of grabbing everybody’s attention and giving us all an informative and entertaining 40 minute tour. Even the children in the group stayed silent with wide eyed fascination while she spoke.

There was a rehearsal taking place on the stage and they still very kindly allowed us to access the theatre. What a bonus to actually see some wonderful actors rehearsing King Lear in front of our very eyes! On the downside, we weren’t allowed to take photographs while they rehearsed so I can only show you the outside of the building.

This is the 3^rd Globe theatre to be built in the vicinity. The first one was built in Shakespeare’s time and many of his greatest works were written and performed there. Unfortunately the original Globe burnt down but was soon rebuilt. The second one was closed down by the Puritans who believed theatre bred bad behaviour- drunkenness, prostitution and theft. They were right to a certain degree!

The new Globe was constructed in the 1990s using traditional crafts and techniques to produce an authentic looking theatre with few modern additions. The auditorium and stage area are stunning. You get a real sense of how it would have been in Elizabethan times. In those days, one could stand in the pit for just 1 penny or sit for 2 pence and have a cushion for 3! Nowadays it is still pretty cheap. 700 tickets for every performance are sold for just £5 and the top price is £33 which for London theatre is incredibly cheap.

I got so carried away with the magic of the Globe that, after the tour, I found myself queuing up at the box office! The season only started last night and tonight I’m going back to the Globe to see “King Lear” in its entirety. I will, of course, write a review.

It’s hard to explain how special Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre is so I highly recommend that you include it in your sightseeing itinerary and discover for yourself. The theatre season runs until October but the exhibition and tours are available all year round.

London Blue Plaques at Handel House Museum

Keep your eyes fixed firmly ahead when walking around the streets of London and you miss some of its most beautiful buildings and also its history.

Lift your eyes up slightly and you may just spot one of the hundreds of blue plaques dotted around the city to commemorate the lives of famous people.

Just a few minutes walk away from the bustling shops of Oxford Street are two such plaques right next door to each other. 23 and 25 Brook Street in the heart of Mayfair were once the homes of Jimi Hendrix and G F Handel. Obviously these two great musicians were never actually next door neighbours but despite the 200 year gap in their residencies, the two blue plaques commemorate their time in London.

25 Brook Street is now home to the Handel House Museum. This charming Georgian townhouse has been restored to reflect how it looked in Handel’s lifetime.

I visited the Handel House Museum using the London Pass which gave me free entry on a day of London sightseeing. The German composer of great works such as the Messiah and Zadok The Priest lived here from 1723 until his death in 1759.

Not only did he write some of his greatest works here but he also held rehearsals for his operas and oratorios in the Performance room. These rehearsals were sometimes held in front of small audiences consisting of friends and patrons who often witnessed Handel impatiently swearing at the singers in several different languages!

On the day I visited I was pleasantly surprised to find a lady rehearsing on the stunning reproduction harpsichord. Thankfully for her (and me) there was no swearing composer in attendance so I was able to sit on the window seat and enjoy her beautiful playing undisturbed.

Apparently musicians are encouraged to use this unique space to rehearse so a free concert is not an unusual occurrence.

Although the furniture in the house is not original, they have gone to great pains to display either good reproductions or similar pieces from Handel’s lifetime. Despite this, the museum is well worth visiting for its historic value and for a sense of how this great composer lived.

There is currently a special Messiah exhibition being held at the museum which includes the earliest attempt to make a copy of the Messiah score. This 1868 manuscript is a pretty impressive sight! There are also headphones playing a recording of the Messiah which is a rather nice touch for the uninitiated and lovers of Handel’s music alike.

The exhibition continues in 23 Brook Street which was briefly the home of legendary rock guitarist Jimi Hendrix in the 1960s. Here, there is one room dedicated to Handel’s manuscripts and his music (again, played through headphones for visitors to enjoy). The second room is labelled the “Activity Area” and contains a dressing up area with historical and opera costumes. A computer and keyboard are supplied to encourage kids to try their hand at composing. It would have been easy to dismiss this room as meant purely for children if I had not noticed the nod to Hendrix on one wall.

The Handel House Museum have acknowledged the fact that Jimi Hendrix once lived in this part of the museum by displaying some beautiful black and white photographs taken of the musician in January 1969 inside the Upper Flat of 23 Brook Street.

It may seem that these two iconic music figures have little in common but, other than living in neighbouring properties, I discovered another mutual achievement held by Handel and Hendrix. While many think of huge crowds of music lovers being the domain of rock stars such as Hendrix (think Woodstock), one would not envisage similar crowds in Handel’s time. Well think again. On 21^st April 1749 Handel held a public rehearsal of “Music for the Royal Fireworks” at 11 o’clock in the morning which drew a crowd of 12,000 people and literally stopped traffic for three hours! Ever the businessman, Handel charged each attendee 2s 6d (12.5 pence) to hear his new work rehearsed in Vauxhall Gardens. It is hardly a surprise to know that Handel was rarely short of money and, on his death in 1759, left many thousands of pounds to his favoured charities.

The Handel House Museum may not be your typical tourist attraction but for an insight into the world of an 18^th century composer and well known London social figure, it is a great way to spend a couple of hours. For those with more contemporary music interests it is an added bonus to tread the same floorboards once walked on by Jimi Hendrix.